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With all of 35 seats and no more than seven or eight items on the all-organic menu at any given time -- including free-range bone broth and a breakfast burrito -- this here is one boutique coffee shop. Also cooked in duck fat: the eggs topping a giant pile of bacon-fried rice.

Also topped with an egg: the luscious comfort that is congee with smoked ham, drizzled in chili oil.

Granted, no one goes to a brewery for the food either -- but that doesn’t stop the kitchen from putting some forethought into pub standards like quadrupel-braised onion soup, brisket-topped nachos, and smoked prime rib.

Still, it’s the beer you come for, and it’s beer you shall have from 30 taps, many of them devoted to one-offs and experimental releases that you can only get right here.

Consider this the only scenario in which you’d ever utter the phrase, "You Littletonians sure are lucky to live here!

" It made our list of 25 Great Date Ideas: that’s the level of suave-itude this supper club achieves with its sleek, silvery Art Deco looks and its live-jazz lineup, its fancy cocktails and chic nibbles like raw oysters with rose foam.

First of all, it looks like it belongs on a boardwalk rather than a sketchy stretch of South Broadway.

Second, everything from raw oysters to fried shrimp to the daily catch benefits from the kitchen’s simple, sparkling-clean style. Lon Symensma has always sprinkled the menu at his swank modern Asian flagship with sly references to street food, but this insta-hangout is all about the funky stuff of hawker stalls, snack carts, and beer shacks from Hanoi to Chiang Mai.

Who hasn’t, at one time or another, thought to himself, "Hmm, I sure would like to visit the circus, but I also want some thick-crust pizza? Paying homage to the theater that once stood here, the Bar-on family has filled the former Silvi’s Kitchen with fanciful depictions of zebras and harlequins and carnival masks -- but they’ve stopped short of serving up corn dogs and cotton candy, for which anyone who ever threw up on a carousel will be thankful.

Now if only they offered a bespoke Mc Muffin for 10 totally reasonable bucks.

Given a midcentury gas station, Justin Cucci built the retro, subtly roadside-themed Root Down; given an old mortuary, he designed Linger to put the “fun” in “funerary.” Then he got hold of a former-bordello-turned-porn-shop. ) Don’t just come here hungry -- come here after getting stranded in the mountains and living on bark and snowmelt for a week. Together, you all might manage to polish off the insane heaps of meat the good ol’ Texan boy tending the smoker will toss your way.

But don’t overlook daily specials like the commendable chicken & waffles, either. If an Italian sausage is good, an Italian sausage in a garlic bun topped with spaghetti and cheese-sprinkled marinara sauce is better; if an all-beef wiener is right, covering it in roast beef, pastrami, or brisket can’t be wrong.

Supposedly, there are people who won’t put anything on a hot dog but mustard. After paying his dues at a mall food court, Harley’s owner, Ed Ginsburg, is serving up these and other beasts in a brand-new, patio-flanked space of his own.

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